Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Winter Bird Feeding

Now that winter is upon us, I would like to remind everyone to remember their feathered friends during these long, cold winter months. Bird feeding has become one of the most popular interactions with wildlife, and it is easy to understand its popularity. The ability to give back to nature while reaping the education and entertainment of watching the daily habits of these backyard creatures is immensely satisfying.

But there are some things to keep in mind with these freezing temperatures we've been having as of late. One is a water source. With these freezing temperatures, much of the available water for birds is becoming frozen. This is why it's best to keep a fresh water source available for them. This may require the need to have two containers available. Place one outdoors for the current day's use. Replace it with the second container the following morning and allow the original to thaw

Different types of seed as well as various feeders can also be used to attract a variety of birds.

Feeders range from tube to suet to ground feeders and platform feeders; feeders should be placed at varying heights to accommodate different birds. Platform feeders attract larger birds like cardinals, wrens, and jays while tube feeders are best for chickadees, titmice, nuthatches, and finches.

Food high in calories such as suet and oil sunflower mixes are good for winter. When buying a seed mix, avoid those with a high content of agricultural grains. These include wheat, oats, red millet, and milo. While it may look as though you are purchasing a lot of seed, much of it will go uneaten and simply fall to the ground, eventually spoiling or even attracting unwanted rodents.

While feeding the birds is a great source of enjoyment, please keep in mind that once you begin to offer a supply of winter nourishment, it should be done with daily diligence. The birds will come to rely upon the feeders.

Attracting birds is an activity to be enjoyed regardless of the size of your property here in town. Providing food, water, and shelter will increase not only the number of birds that visit, but the diversity as well.

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Cyclamen: A Holiday Favorite



The perfect accompaniment to holiday decorating.
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If you are looking for a gift or home accent this holiday season that is either different than a poinsettia or a perfect compliment to one, cyclamen is the answer.

Today's florist cyclamen are hybrids of the cyclamen that were originally native to Greece and Syria. They are actually considered to be a low growing herb and a member of the primrose family. Their colorful, long lasting flowers and heart-shaped leaves are attractively veined with silver and have made them very popular as centerpiece and gift plants.

Cyclamen flowers may be single, double, fringed, bicolor, or even striped. Colors range from exquisitely pure white to all shades of pink, lavender, purple, red, and a dark wine-like shade. Some of the miniature strains can be delightfully scented. In addition, today's hybrids can be maintained over a wide temperature range from the upper 30's to normal home temperatures. Individual flowers as well as the blooming season will be extended if the plants can be kept at cooler temperatures rather than warmer.

Provide part sun through full sun, or the artificial light equivalent, to keep plants compact and flowers from stretching and failing to open. Plants grown in insufficient light typically stretch and become weak. Lower leaves will fade and yellow.

Care in the Home

  • Cyclamen should be watered thoroughly when the soil looks and feels dry on the surface. Do not over water or allow the plants to stand in water for any length of time. Plants that are allowed to wilt or get too much water will get yellow leaves.
  • As part of regular maintenance, spent blooms should be plucked.
  • Fertilize plants lightly while in bloom. During late spring and summer when not in bloom, the fertilizer rate should be cut in half.
  • Year round, it is important to provide good air movement around your plants. Plants that are in tight quarters and placed too tightly together are prone to fungal attack.

Cyclamen can provide a real pop of color over the holidays and well cared for plants will continue to bloom well into early spring before going dormant.

For more gardening information, or to submit your own questions, feel free to email me at tracy@parkerplants.com.

Monday, December 7, 2009

The Beloved Poinsettia



Essential tips for buying and care of this great holiday plant.

What shows that the holidays are here more so than the beloved poinsettia? These beautiful plants (actually native to Mexico) bloom from late November well into January and some are even still going strong into February! Paired with a decorative pot and some ferns or ivy to add a splash of green, they are ideal holiday decorations for any home, office space, and/or business.

When thinking of poinsettias, most people envision red or white, but there are many more colors: shades of pink, marble, salmon, and red & white mixed, just to name a few.

An assortment of these plants can be found at a number of local Scotch Plains and Fanwood garden shops and stores. When buying one, be sure to look for sturdy stems that will not break easily. The actual flower is located in the middle of the colorful bracts. These should be relatively tight to ensure the longest bloom. Make sure that there is no curling or brittleness to the leaves and bracts.

Poinsettias should be placed in a bright area in your home or office. They benefit most from at least 4 hours of indirect sunlight per day. They grow best in temperatures averaging 70 degrees. Placement to close to fireplaces, heating units, and even on televisions is not ideal. Likewise, they should not be displayed near areas that will be subject to cold temperatures or drafts, such as a commonly used doorway.

Check your poinsettia for water daily. They should be evenly moist - never reaching a point of total dryness, but never soggy as well. While blooming, poinsettias do not require fertilizer.

When buying your poinsettias, be sure to get them home as soon as possible. Very susceptible to cold damage, they should never be left outside in a cold vehicle for any length of time.

With the proper placement and care, your poinsettia will give you color that can last up to three months!

For more gardening information, or to submit your own questions, feel free to email me at tracy@parkerplants.com.

Christmas Trees: Choosing the Right Tree for You



Frasier and Balsam firs are among the best.
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Another Thanksgiving is behind us, and now December and Christmas are fast on their way. For many of us in Scotch Plains and Fanwood, it is again time to choose a beautiful and fragrant fresh cut tree to decorate our homes and enhance our holiday celebration.

When selecting a fresh cut tree, the best choices are the Frasier fir and the Balsam fir.

Frasier Firs are native to the southern Appalachian Mountains. Its needles are extremely fragrant and are a beautiful silver and green color. They have strong, natural symmetry which simply makes it an attractive tree. It has strong branches, excellent for heavier, larger ornaments. he Frasier Fir also has excellent needle retention.

Balsam fir is the traditional variety used as a cut Christmas tree. It has the familiar room-filling pine scent, and an amazingly dense perfect cone shape. Branches are strong for ornament hanging, and its lush green needle color is delightful.

A cut tree will last the entire holiday season with the proper care.

Before placing the tree into its stand, give the bottom of the trunk a fresh cut, at least an inch thick and straight across. When the tree is first cut at the tree farm, the sap forms a seal over the bottom that will keep it from absorbing water. A fresh cut removes this seal and allows the tree to begin to "drink" water again.

Be sure that the tree stand holds ample water and replenish it often enough that the water level does not fall below the bottom of the trunk. A tree with a 2-inch diameter trunk usually uses about 2 quarts of water per day and a 4-inch diameter trunk will require over a gallon of water per day. Adding a tree preservative will give the tree nutrients that it needs while living in your home.

Fresh Christmas trees should be displayed well away from heating vents and/or fireplaces.

For more gardening information, or to submit your own questions, feel free to email me at tracy@parkerplants.com.


Monday, November 23, 2009

Winter Containers - Time for the Switch


Alberta Spruce make an excellent choice for winter-long color in outdoor containers.
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Once again, it is time to change over those tired-looking container gardens adorning the walkways, porches, and decks of our Scotch Plains and Fanwood homes. And, what perfect timing — the weather is nice and your containers will be looking great for Thanksgiving!

My favorite suggestion for an awesome plant to fill winter planters is the Dwarf Alberta Spruce. It is an adorable evergreen shrub that looks just like a miniature Christmas tree. The dense, bright green foliage almost never needs pruning. They are slow growers so they will not outgrow their pots too quickly.

In fact, the township of Scotch Plains has chosen the Alberta Spruce to fill its planters for the holidays.

Albertas take pruning very well and are often times trimmed into sprials in addition to being left in their natural form. They need very little care other than the occasional watering and an acidic fertilizer in the spring. They are hardy, dense plants that can even take decorating with strands of clear or multicolored lights and decorations for a festive glow.

Oh, and did I mention that they can remain attractive as your container plants all year round? Dwarf Alberta Spruce can be planted on their own in the winter, or perhaps combined with some colorful cabbage or kale. n the warmer months it is very easy to add a few annuals around the spruce to achieve the color you are looking for in the spring and summer months.

So if you are looking for a versatile and easy-to-grow plant that is a superb species of evergreen for outdoor containers, the Dwarf Alberta Spruce is for you. Why not go for one? You'll be very glad you did as you admire their simplicity and beauty throughout the winter to come.

Tracy A. Smith is Scotch Plains-Fanwood Patch's gardening columnist and the general manager at Parker Gardens. Look for her column here every week.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Bringing the Green Thumb Indoors



Houseplants aren’t just for houses anymore! All around town we see them in schools, offices, stores, libraries, restaurants, and health clubs. Now that the temperatures outside are changing and the days are getting shorter, we are spending more time inside. What a perfect time to stock up on your houseplants to keep that green thumb thriving all fall and winter long!

What exactly are these things we call houseplants? For the most part, they fall under two categories:

  • Houseplants are generally tropical plants – native to the tropical and subtropical areas of the world
  • Houseplants are also decorative plants that can be sustained year-round in an indoor environment

Houseplants bring our living and working spaces to life by providing interest, color, and texture. They can create serenity with delicate leaves and enchanting, soothing colors. On the contrary, houseplants can also create excitement with their strong leaf patterns and veining, coarse textures, and bold tropical colors.

Houseplants also have health benefits. They filter toxins from the air (Benzene, Trichloroethylene, and Formaldehyde). Plants take in CO2 and replenish the air we breathe with oxygen. They can create an aesthetically pleasing environment that helps to boost our moods and relieve stress.

Lighting is the number one limiting factor for the plants that we are able to grow successfully in our own spaces.

Most offices and homes can sustain plants that are considered “low light." These are plants that can not only survive, but thrive in artificial office lighting, northern windows, locations that are several feet away from an east or west window, or plants positioned far back from a southern exposure.

Some offices and most homes will have a few areas that will sustain “medium light” plants. This would include direct exposure to an eastern or western facing window, or filtered light from a southern exposure.

A few lucky indoor gardeners will have a greenhouse, sunroom, or a bright, southern exposure. This is the area with the brightest possible natural light in an indoor environment.

If you place your plant in lighting that is not suitable for its growth, it will let you know. Low light is indicated by yellowing, dropping leaves and buds as well as spindly, open growth. Light that is too bright will cause washed out/bleached color on the leaves or darkened sunburn spots.

Most plants will thrive between daytime temperatures of 60 to 75 degrees. Be careful of microclimates near windowpanes, heaters, and air conditioners. If you place your houseplants outside during the spring and summer (which is very good for the plant) wait until the nighttime temperatures are consistently in the high 50’s and pick areas that are protected from hot afternoon sun. Full sun indoors is much weaker than full sun outdoors.

Tropical plants require high humidity levels. When humidity levels are low (from home heaters and air conditioners), foliage becomes dry, turning brown, and buds can drop. Think of a plant’s humidity requirements as similar to the moisture requirements of our skin. When conditions are not ideal, our skin becomes dry. Just as we must apply skin lotion, plants need to have humidity provided via humidity trays, humidifiers, pebble trays with a small amount of water; misting, even grouping plants together can create more humidity.

Water requirements vary with the seasons. Plants experience their active growth in spring and summer, while their dormant periods are in the fall and winter. Allow the soil to slightly dry and then soak the roots thoroughly. It is better to err on the dry side than wet. In winter it is not uncommon to water once or twice per month, and in summer to water multiple times during a week. Always provide proper drainage to remove any water that is not absorbed. If plants sit in water, their roots are deprived of oxygen and will begin to rot.

As with watering, fertilizer requirements vary with growth activity. Actively growing houseplants can be watered on a weekly basis with a weak fertilizer solution or every two weeks with a standard solution. During the fall and winter months when growth is slow, it is usually sufficient to fertilize about every six weeks. Regardless of your schedule, it is important that you flush out the potting soil in between applications to remove any unused fertilizer salts that may have accumulated.

Remember to repot your houseplants. The potting soil that you use will decompose over time. You should repot with fresh soil about every two years – preferably in the beginning of spring. As our plants grow, they will begin to become too large for their pots. When repotting, choose a new pot that is 2” to 4” larger in diameter than the old pot. If the pot is too large, the potting soil will remain wet for extensive periods of time, causing the roots to rot. The pot that you use must have a drainage hole to allow excess water to escape. Pots without drainage holes are meant to be pot covers. You place your potted plant inside of the pot cover to add a decorative flair. When using a pot cover you must always pour out any excess water from the bottom.

Matching the plants you buy to your environment is crucial to your success. With the proper lighting and care, houseplants will give you enjoyment for many years.

For more information or answers to your questions, feel free to contact me at tracy@parkerplants.com.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

The Fall Pumpkin


The fall decorations and displays around Scotch Plains and Fanwood make the season feel so festive and cheery. I love seeing the mums, straw bales, scarecrows, and pumpkin displays!

Now is generally the time when folks begin to take their pumpkins and carve them for Halloween. Because I was curious to learn more about this tradition, I decided to look into exactly where the practice began.

The carving of the pumpkin goes way back to European traditions of carving vegetables (the most popular actually being the turnip) to make easy and inexpensive lanterns for every day use. It wasn't until 1833 when the carved and lit pumpkins began to be associated with Halloween, due to the vivid imaginations of various storytellers and writers who used the objects in their stories.

These days, there are many options for pumpkin decorating. If you decide to go the traditional route and carve, here are a few tips for you.

  • Be sure to carve the lid just around the top of the pumpkin — do not make it too big or you will reduce the size of the space remaining for your jack-o-lantern face.
  • Scrape and remove all of the innards. They will become rotten, smell bad, and attract insects if you are not thorough.
  • Lightly draw your face before carving and then, look at the proportions before making that first cut. A drawing can be changed, but the cutting can not.
  • After the pumpkin has been carved, thoroughly coat the inside and all of the cut out holes with petroleum jelly. This not only allows the pumpkin to retain its moisture and last longer, but also helps to deter insects.
  • Last but not least, choose a sturdy, easy to light candle for illumination. If you are wary of the flame, department stores and craft shops should carry battery operated candles — a.k.a. flameless candles.
Of course, not all pumpkins need to be carved. Painting is just as attractive. By using the stem as the nose, applying hats, glasses, hair, and any other number of accessories - uncarved pumpkins can be made into works of art. And, because they are not carved, with cool weather, many will last until Thanksgiving.

For more information or to submit your own questions, feel free to email me at tracy@parkerplants.com.