Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Cyclamen: A Holiday Favorite



The perfect accompaniment to holiday decorating.
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If you are looking for a gift or home accent this holiday season that is either different than a poinsettia or a perfect compliment to one, cyclamen is the answer.

Today's florist cyclamen are hybrids of the cyclamen that were originally native to Greece and Syria. They are actually considered to be a low growing herb and a member of the primrose family. Their colorful, long lasting flowers and heart-shaped leaves are attractively veined with silver and have made them very popular as centerpiece and gift plants.

Cyclamen flowers may be single, double, fringed, bicolor, or even striped. Colors range from exquisitely pure white to all shades of pink, lavender, purple, red, and a dark wine-like shade. Some of the miniature strains can be delightfully scented. In addition, today's hybrids can be maintained over a wide temperature range from the upper 30's to normal home temperatures. Individual flowers as well as the blooming season will be extended if the plants can be kept at cooler temperatures rather than warmer.

Provide part sun through full sun, or the artificial light equivalent, to keep plants compact and flowers from stretching and failing to open. Plants grown in insufficient light typically stretch and become weak. Lower leaves will fade and yellow.

Care in the Home

  • Cyclamen should be watered thoroughly when the soil looks and feels dry on the surface. Do not over water or allow the plants to stand in water for any length of time. Plants that are allowed to wilt or get too much water will get yellow leaves.
  • As part of regular maintenance, spent blooms should be plucked.
  • Fertilize plants lightly while in bloom. During late spring and summer when not in bloom, the fertilizer rate should be cut in half.
  • Year round, it is important to provide good air movement around your plants. Plants that are in tight quarters and placed too tightly together are prone to fungal attack.

Cyclamen can provide a real pop of color over the holidays and well cared for plants will continue to bloom well into early spring before going dormant.

For more gardening information, or to submit your own questions, feel free to email me at tracy@parkerplants.com.

Monday, December 7, 2009

The Beloved Poinsettia



Essential tips for buying and care of this great holiday plant.

What shows that the holidays are here more so than the beloved poinsettia? These beautiful plants (actually native to Mexico) bloom from late November well into January and some are even still going strong into February! Paired with a decorative pot and some ferns or ivy to add a splash of green, they are ideal holiday decorations for any home, office space, and/or business.

When thinking of poinsettias, most people envision red or white, but there are many more colors: shades of pink, marble, salmon, and red & white mixed, just to name a few.

An assortment of these plants can be found at a number of local Scotch Plains and Fanwood garden shops and stores. When buying one, be sure to look for sturdy stems that will not break easily. The actual flower is located in the middle of the colorful bracts. These should be relatively tight to ensure the longest bloom. Make sure that there is no curling or brittleness to the leaves and bracts.

Poinsettias should be placed in a bright area in your home or office. They benefit most from at least 4 hours of indirect sunlight per day. They grow best in temperatures averaging 70 degrees. Placement to close to fireplaces, heating units, and even on televisions is not ideal. Likewise, they should not be displayed near areas that will be subject to cold temperatures or drafts, such as a commonly used doorway.

Check your poinsettia for water daily. They should be evenly moist - never reaching a point of total dryness, but never soggy as well. While blooming, poinsettias do not require fertilizer.

When buying your poinsettias, be sure to get them home as soon as possible. Very susceptible to cold damage, they should never be left outside in a cold vehicle for any length of time.

With the proper placement and care, your poinsettia will give you color that can last up to three months!

For more gardening information, or to submit your own questions, feel free to email me at tracy@parkerplants.com.

Christmas Trees: Choosing the Right Tree for You



Frasier and Balsam firs are among the best.
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Another Thanksgiving is behind us, and now December and Christmas are fast on their way. For many of us in Scotch Plains and Fanwood, it is again time to choose a beautiful and fragrant fresh cut tree to decorate our homes and enhance our holiday celebration.

When selecting a fresh cut tree, the best choices are the Frasier fir and the Balsam fir.

Frasier Firs are native to the southern Appalachian Mountains. Its needles are extremely fragrant and are a beautiful silver and green color. They have strong, natural symmetry which simply makes it an attractive tree. It has strong branches, excellent for heavier, larger ornaments. he Frasier Fir also has excellent needle retention.

Balsam fir is the traditional variety used as a cut Christmas tree. It has the familiar room-filling pine scent, and an amazingly dense perfect cone shape. Branches are strong for ornament hanging, and its lush green needle color is delightful.

A cut tree will last the entire holiday season with the proper care.

Before placing the tree into its stand, give the bottom of the trunk a fresh cut, at least an inch thick and straight across. When the tree is first cut at the tree farm, the sap forms a seal over the bottom that will keep it from absorbing water. A fresh cut removes this seal and allows the tree to begin to "drink" water again.

Be sure that the tree stand holds ample water and replenish it often enough that the water level does not fall below the bottom of the trunk. A tree with a 2-inch diameter trunk usually uses about 2 quarts of water per day and a 4-inch diameter trunk will require over a gallon of water per day. Adding a tree preservative will give the tree nutrients that it needs while living in your home.

Fresh Christmas trees should be displayed well away from heating vents and/or fireplaces.

For more gardening information, or to submit your own questions, feel free to email me at tracy@parkerplants.com.


Monday, November 23, 2009

Winter Containers - Time for the Switch


Alberta Spruce make an excellent choice for winter-long color in outdoor containers.
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Once again, it is time to change over those tired-looking container gardens adorning the walkways, porches, and decks of our Scotch Plains and Fanwood homes. And, what perfect timing — the weather is nice and your containers will be looking great for Thanksgiving!

My favorite suggestion for an awesome plant to fill winter planters is the Dwarf Alberta Spruce. It is an adorable evergreen shrub that looks just like a miniature Christmas tree. The dense, bright green foliage almost never needs pruning. They are slow growers so they will not outgrow their pots too quickly.

In fact, the township of Scotch Plains has chosen the Alberta Spruce to fill its planters for the holidays.

Albertas take pruning very well and are often times trimmed into sprials in addition to being left in their natural form. They need very little care other than the occasional watering and an acidic fertilizer in the spring. They are hardy, dense plants that can even take decorating with strands of clear or multicolored lights and decorations for a festive glow.

Oh, and did I mention that they can remain attractive as your container plants all year round? Dwarf Alberta Spruce can be planted on their own in the winter, or perhaps combined with some colorful cabbage or kale. n the warmer months it is very easy to add a few annuals around the spruce to achieve the color you are looking for in the spring and summer months.

So if you are looking for a versatile and easy-to-grow plant that is a superb species of evergreen for outdoor containers, the Dwarf Alberta Spruce is for you. Why not go for one? You'll be very glad you did as you admire their simplicity and beauty throughout the winter to come.

Tracy A. Smith is Scotch Plains-Fanwood Patch's gardening columnist and the general manager at Parker Gardens. Look for her column here every week.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Bringing the Green Thumb Indoors



Houseplants aren’t just for houses anymore! All around town we see them in schools, offices, stores, libraries, restaurants, and health clubs. Now that the temperatures outside are changing and the days are getting shorter, we are spending more time inside. What a perfect time to stock up on your houseplants to keep that green thumb thriving all fall and winter long!

What exactly are these things we call houseplants? For the most part, they fall under two categories:

  • Houseplants are generally tropical plants – native to the tropical and subtropical areas of the world
  • Houseplants are also decorative plants that can be sustained year-round in an indoor environment

Houseplants bring our living and working spaces to life by providing interest, color, and texture. They can create serenity with delicate leaves and enchanting, soothing colors. On the contrary, houseplants can also create excitement with their strong leaf patterns and veining, coarse textures, and bold tropical colors.

Houseplants also have health benefits. They filter toxins from the air (Benzene, Trichloroethylene, and Formaldehyde). Plants take in CO2 and replenish the air we breathe with oxygen. They can create an aesthetically pleasing environment that helps to boost our moods and relieve stress.

Lighting is the number one limiting factor for the plants that we are able to grow successfully in our own spaces.

Most offices and homes can sustain plants that are considered “low light." These are plants that can not only survive, but thrive in artificial office lighting, northern windows, locations that are several feet away from an east or west window, or plants positioned far back from a southern exposure.

Some offices and most homes will have a few areas that will sustain “medium light” plants. This would include direct exposure to an eastern or western facing window, or filtered light from a southern exposure.

A few lucky indoor gardeners will have a greenhouse, sunroom, or a bright, southern exposure. This is the area with the brightest possible natural light in an indoor environment.

If you place your plant in lighting that is not suitable for its growth, it will let you know. Low light is indicated by yellowing, dropping leaves and buds as well as spindly, open growth. Light that is too bright will cause washed out/bleached color on the leaves or darkened sunburn spots.

Most plants will thrive between daytime temperatures of 60 to 75 degrees. Be careful of microclimates near windowpanes, heaters, and air conditioners. If you place your houseplants outside during the spring and summer (which is very good for the plant) wait until the nighttime temperatures are consistently in the high 50’s and pick areas that are protected from hot afternoon sun. Full sun indoors is much weaker than full sun outdoors.

Tropical plants require high humidity levels. When humidity levels are low (from home heaters and air conditioners), foliage becomes dry, turning brown, and buds can drop. Think of a plant’s humidity requirements as similar to the moisture requirements of our skin. When conditions are not ideal, our skin becomes dry. Just as we must apply skin lotion, plants need to have humidity provided via humidity trays, humidifiers, pebble trays with a small amount of water; misting, even grouping plants together can create more humidity.

Water requirements vary with the seasons. Plants experience their active growth in spring and summer, while their dormant periods are in the fall and winter. Allow the soil to slightly dry and then soak the roots thoroughly. It is better to err on the dry side than wet. In winter it is not uncommon to water once or twice per month, and in summer to water multiple times during a week. Always provide proper drainage to remove any water that is not absorbed. If plants sit in water, their roots are deprived of oxygen and will begin to rot.

As with watering, fertilizer requirements vary with growth activity. Actively growing houseplants can be watered on a weekly basis with a weak fertilizer solution or every two weeks with a standard solution. During the fall and winter months when growth is slow, it is usually sufficient to fertilize about every six weeks. Regardless of your schedule, it is important that you flush out the potting soil in between applications to remove any unused fertilizer salts that may have accumulated.

Remember to repot your houseplants. The potting soil that you use will decompose over time. You should repot with fresh soil about every two years – preferably in the beginning of spring. As our plants grow, they will begin to become too large for their pots. When repotting, choose a new pot that is 2” to 4” larger in diameter than the old pot. If the pot is too large, the potting soil will remain wet for extensive periods of time, causing the roots to rot. The pot that you use must have a drainage hole to allow excess water to escape. Pots without drainage holes are meant to be pot covers. You place your potted plant inside of the pot cover to add a decorative flair. When using a pot cover you must always pour out any excess water from the bottom.

Matching the plants you buy to your environment is crucial to your success. With the proper lighting and care, houseplants will give you enjoyment for many years.

For more information or answers to your questions, feel free to contact me at tracy@parkerplants.com.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

The Fall Pumpkin


The fall decorations and displays around Scotch Plains and Fanwood make the season feel so festive and cheery. I love seeing the mums, straw bales, scarecrows, and pumpkin displays!

Now is generally the time when folks begin to take their pumpkins and carve them for Halloween. Because I was curious to learn more about this tradition, I decided to look into exactly where the practice began.

The carving of the pumpkin goes way back to European traditions of carving vegetables (the most popular actually being the turnip) to make easy and inexpensive lanterns for every day use. It wasn't until 1833 when the carved and lit pumpkins began to be associated with Halloween, due to the vivid imaginations of various storytellers and writers who used the objects in their stories.

These days, there are many options for pumpkin decorating. If you decide to go the traditional route and carve, here are a few tips for you.

  • Be sure to carve the lid just around the top of the pumpkin — do not make it too big or you will reduce the size of the space remaining for your jack-o-lantern face.
  • Scrape and remove all of the innards. They will become rotten, smell bad, and attract insects if you are not thorough.
  • Lightly draw your face before carving and then, look at the proportions before making that first cut. A drawing can be changed, but the cutting can not.
  • After the pumpkin has been carved, thoroughly coat the inside and all of the cut out holes with petroleum jelly. This not only allows the pumpkin to retain its moisture and last longer, but also helps to deter insects.
  • Last but not least, choose a sturdy, easy to light candle for illumination. If you are wary of the flame, department stores and craft shops should carry battery operated candles — a.k.a. flameless candles.
Of course, not all pumpkins need to be carved. Painting is just as attractive. By using the stem as the nose, applying hats, glasses, hair, and any other number of accessories - uncarved pumpkins can be made into works of art. And, because they are not carved, with cool weather, many will last until Thanksgiving.

For more information or to submit your own questions, feel free to email me at tracy@parkerplants.com.

Friday, October 2, 2009

Fall Foliage


October Gardening Tips
Parker Gardens
1325 Terrill Rd, Scotch Plains

We all love the fall display in our landscapes and through Scotch Plains and Fanwood, with all of the trees in our area - but - did you ever wonder what causes that beautiful fall display?
By Tracy A. Smith | 5:51am

As I drive through Scotch Plains and Fanwood, I like to look at all of our trees and watch the progression of their change in leaf color. Did you ever wonder why they change color and give us a breath-taking show each fall? Well, the answer will give you a little lesson in plant physiology.

During the summer,as the nights began to get longer, hormonal changes began to occur in our trees. This slowed and eventually stopped the production to chlorophyl in our trees' leaves. Chlorophyl is the substance that gives the leaves their green color and captures the sunlight to convert it into food for the tree.

As the chlorophyl dies off, the colors of the leaves' starches and sugars come out...and they happen to be orange, red, and yellow. The brilliance of the show is influenced by the amount of water we received during the season, and the coolness of the fall temperatures. Based upon this information - wea re in for a great Autumn display this year!

Getting back to the garden though...as the leaves begin to fall, it is important to remove them from your lawn. The best way is to use a mulching lawnmower and use the mulched up leaves as extra fertilizer on your lawn. As the chopped up leaves decompose, nitrogen is added back into the soil. The second best choice is to rake and compost your leaves.

If leaves are left on top of the lawn, they will shade out the grass from the sun, creating dead spots and a damp environment that is perfect for disease growth. This will greatly weaken your lawn both now and as it sustains itself over the winter.

For more information, or to submit your own questions, feel free to email me at tracy@parkerplants.com

Spring Blooming Bulbs!


Gardening: Planting Spring-Blooming Bulbs
Parker Gardens
1325 Terrill Rd, Scotch Plains

We enjoy the flowers in the spring, but the time to plant is now.
By Tracy A. Smith
September 19, 2009



While most people of Scotch Plains and Fanwood probably think of spring when looking at tulips, daffodils, crocus, hyacinth, and the plethora of other March and April blooming bulb plants, it is important to know that fall is the time to plant the bulbs in order to enjoy those cheery, colorful, and aromatic blossoms next year.

Fresh bulbs are now available for purchase. They should go into the ground shortly after buying them to ensure that they do not dry out. When buying bulbs, look for healthy specimens. They should feel solid when you pick them up. Avoid any with soft spots, mold, or bruises.

Planting:

Many of us in Scotch Plains and Fanwood have to deal with clay soil. Be sure to add plenty of sphagnum peat moss, compost, and sand so air and water can move through the soil easily.

Each type of bulb has a different planting depth so be sure to read the label of each package that you buy. If you become confused by which end goes up, the pointy end goes upwards and the either flattened end or fatter end is the bottom.

Treat bulbs with rodent repellents to keep squirrels, voles, mice, etc. from scampering off with your freshly planted flowers. Add fertilizers such as bulb-tone mixed with bonemeal for the heartiest spring color displays. Spring bulbs do not benefit by being fertilized during or after blooming. The time to fertilize is at planting and then in the subsequent autumns that follow.

Water bulbs thoroughly after planting and then let Mother Nature take over from there.

Bulbs are an excellent choice for our area. Because many of the spring blooming bulbs will perform whether planted in full sun or in wooded areas, we can all benefit from their beauty.

Dividing Perennials

Gardening: Dividing Perennials

Parker Gardens
1325 Terrill Rd, Scotch Plains
Fall is a great time to divide perennials, not just to increase the plants in your landscape but to keep your perennials healthy as well.
By Tracy A. Smith
September 26, 2009

Perennials are awesome plants. Not only do they add seasonal color, but they come back every year. If you time it and plant it just right (and I see about half and half of this process as I make my way through Scotch Plains and Fanwood), you have early blooming perennials, summer bloomers that come into color just as the early bloomers have finished showing their color, and fall bloomers to take you through November. That is about eight months of continuous color!
One other great reason to buy perennials is that they can be divided. By dividing, I mean just what it sounds like — you take a clump and break it into smaller plants. Now, not only do perennials provide color, but they can help fill your landscape and help stretch your money that was originally invested into your garden ... and they are great to share with neighbors.

Another reason for division with some (but not all) perennials is that after a few years in the ground, perennials are ready to be divided into smaller clumps. It helps keep them in the original size that you needed in the first place, and it keeps them healthy. As certain perennials grow, they may become too dense and crowded. The plant may begin to decline as the center, or heart, of the plant becomes somewhat woody. This can be cut away and the younger offshoots are replanted.

Fall is a great time for perennial division. The soil temperatures are warm even though the air is cooler, rain is more abundant, and the daytime temperatures do not cause stress on the plants. By cutting and dividing your perennials in the fall, they will be ready to perform again next growing season.

Division:
Lift out the plant with a spade;
Divide the plants and more importantly the roots into three or four full portions;
If the divisions do not pull apart easily, use a sharp knife to cut through the plant or wedge the portionas apart;
Trim the vegetation back by about a quarter to a third, we want the new plant to focus more on root production than leaves;
Replant and keep watered for several weeks to aid in root regeneration.


Because the plant is about to enter dormancy, do not expect, and do not be alarmed, by the fact that you do not see much new surface growth. That is reserved for spring and summer.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Partnering with "I Have a Dream" Plainfield and Habitat for Humanity


To read the above story, go to our facebook page - notes tab at http://companies.to/parkergardens

We had a great group of "dreamers" in today to tour the garden center, learn about planting for the Habitat for Humanity project tomorrow, and learn about the different career paths that can lead them to working in the green industry.

Every teen left with a plant of their own to nurture and to remember their experience here.

I am so excited about tomorrow!!! I know that the place will look great!

I will post the pictures when they are finished.

Friday, July 10, 2009

Veggies at the Garden Center



We are growing our own tomatoes here at Parkers. Soon we will be able to offer them for sale - fresh, just off the vine.

Is this something that interests you?
Would you be interested in other fruits and vegetables if we were to partner with a local farmer? How about baked goods?

Let us know what you think we should offer. This is really something we would like to pursue but we want to make sure that we have the right mix.

Friday, July 3, 2009

Fertilize Your Plants

As I drive to and from work, I get really frustrated by all of the annuals that are in desperate need of fertilizer. I see spindly, yellow, leggy plants that can still be lush and colorful if only for a bit of fertilizer.

If you made the investment in time and money, why wouldn't you want the best show? Just come on in and get the darn fertilizer.

Friday, June 26, 2009

A garden Center's Work is Never Done


It takes a special person to work here at Parkers. We really have to love what we do in order to do what we do...Unload trucks, weed, water, plant, load, compost, work in the rain, heat & humidity, cold of winter.

But everyone here at Parkers is special. We love plants and the out-of-doors. We have an artistic streak...plants are our paint and the earth is our canvas.

Here is a peak at our latest merchandising project. We decided to take our main walkway & greenhouses and make little vignettes for our visitors to see, and perhaps to gain ideas for their own homes gardens.





Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Unexpected rain after a much needed sunny day

I know that we've had a ton of rain so far this month...believe me, I can't help but know. Working in a garden center, the weather is an integral part of everything we do.

Today, for just the 5th time in 22 days (or so I thought) we had a dry, sunny day with pretty patches of blue in the sky and a nice breeze. Everyone was in a better mood.

Just a few moments ago, while working on my home computer, I heard an unmistakable sound - wind. This was just not any wind but the kind that preceeds a gusty, heavy downpour. The sky was actually green, and angry. People outside were running for cover.

The first thought in my head was, "NOT AGAIN!!! NO MORE RAIN!!!", but then the sheer beauty of the the storm cut me short.

I stood outside and enjoyed the intense, short cloud burst. When the rain ended, the sky was just stunning....
You know, this was not at all what I had intended to write about. I guess the forces of nature had other ideas.

Friday, June 12, 2009

Questions for our gardening community

After your garden has been planted and mulched, what is the main reason that you come visit us in the summer? What is going on in your garden and outdoor living space at this time?

Are there any categories of plants or gardening accessories that you would like to see added or expanded in our garden center?


(to answer, click on the "comments" line and you will be able to post a comment)