Saturday, October 24, 2009

Bringing the Green Thumb Indoors



Houseplants aren’t just for houses anymore! All around town we see them in schools, offices, stores, libraries, restaurants, and health clubs. Now that the temperatures outside are changing and the days are getting shorter, we are spending more time inside. What a perfect time to stock up on your houseplants to keep that green thumb thriving all fall and winter long!

What exactly are these things we call houseplants? For the most part, they fall under two categories:

  • Houseplants are generally tropical plants – native to the tropical and subtropical areas of the world
  • Houseplants are also decorative plants that can be sustained year-round in an indoor environment

Houseplants bring our living and working spaces to life by providing interest, color, and texture. They can create serenity with delicate leaves and enchanting, soothing colors. On the contrary, houseplants can also create excitement with their strong leaf patterns and veining, coarse textures, and bold tropical colors.

Houseplants also have health benefits. They filter toxins from the air (Benzene, Trichloroethylene, and Formaldehyde). Plants take in CO2 and replenish the air we breathe with oxygen. They can create an aesthetically pleasing environment that helps to boost our moods and relieve stress.

Lighting is the number one limiting factor for the plants that we are able to grow successfully in our own spaces.

Most offices and homes can sustain plants that are considered “low light." These are plants that can not only survive, but thrive in artificial office lighting, northern windows, locations that are several feet away from an east or west window, or plants positioned far back from a southern exposure.

Some offices and most homes will have a few areas that will sustain “medium light” plants. This would include direct exposure to an eastern or western facing window, or filtered light from a southern exposure.

A few lucky indoor gardeners will have a greenhouse, sunroom, or a bright, southern exposure. This is the area with the brightest possible natural light in an indoor environment.

If you place your plant in lighting that is not suitable for its growth, it will let you know. Low light is indicated by yellowing, dropping leaves and buds as well as spindly, open growth. Light that is too bright will cause washed out/bleached color on the leaves or darkened sunburn spots.

Most plants will thrive between daytime temperatures of 60 to 75 degrees. Be careful of microclimates near windowpanes, heaters, and air conditioners. If you place your houseplants outside during the spring and summer (which is very good for the plant) wait until the nighttime temperatures are consistently in the high 50’s and pick areas that are protected from hot afternoon sun. Full sun indoors is much weaker than full sun outdoors.

Tropical plants require high humidity levels. When humidity levels are low (from home heaters and air conditioners), foliage becomes dry, turning brown, and buds can drop. Think of a plant’s humidity requirements as similar to the moisture requirements of our skin. When conditions are not ideal, our skin becomes dry. Just as we must apply skin lotion, plants need to have humidity provided via humidity trays, humidifiers, pebble trays with a small amount of water; misting, even grouping plants together can create more humidity.

Water requirements vary with the seasons. Plants experience their active growth in spring and summer, while their dormant periods are in the fall and winter. Allow the soil to slightly dry and then soak the roots thoroughly. It is better to err on the dry side than wet. In winter it is not uncommon to water once or twice per month, and in summer to water multiple times during a week. Always provide proper drainage to remove any water that is not absorbed. If plants sit in water, their roots are deprived of oxygen and will begin to rot.

As with watering, fertilizer requirements vary with growth activity. Actively growing houseplants can be watered on a weekly basis with a weak fertilizer solution or every two weeks with a standard solution. During the fall and winter months when growth is slow, it is usually sufficient to fertilize about every six weeks. Regardless of your schedule, it is important that you flush out the potting soil in between applications to remove any unused fertilizer salts that may have accumulated.

Remember to repot your houseplants. The potting soil that you use will decompose over time. You should repot with fresh soil about every two years – preferably in the beginning of spring. As our plants grow, they will begin to become too large for their pots. When repotting, choose a new pot that is 2” to 4” larger in diameter than the old pot. If the pot is too large, the potting soil will remain wet for extensive periods of time, causing the roots to rot. The pot that you use must have a drainage hole to allow excess water to escape. Pots without drainage holes are meant to be pot covers. You place your potted plant inside of the pot cover to add a decorative flair. When using a pot cover you must always pour out any excess water from the bottom.

Matching the plants you buy to your environment is crucial to your success. With the proper lighting and care, houseplants will give you enjoyment for many years.

For more information or answers to your questions, feel free to contact me at tracy@parkerplants.com.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

The Fall Pumpkin


The fall decorations and displays around Scotch Plains and Fanwood make the season feel so festive and cheery. I love seeing the mums, straw bales, scarecrows, and pumpkin displays!

Now is generally the time when folks begin to take their pumpkins and carve them for Halloween. Because I was curious to learn more about this tradition, I decided to look into exactly where the practice began.

The carving of the pumpkin goes way back to European traditions of carving vegetables (the most popular actually being the turnip) to make easy and inexpensive lanterns for every day use. It wasn't until 1833 when the carved and lit pumpkins began to be associated with Halloween, due to the vivid imaginations of various storytellers and writers who used the objects in their stories.

These days, there are many options for pumpkin decorating. If you decide to go the traditional route and carve, here are a few tips for you.

  • Be sure to carve the lid just around the top of the pumpkin — do not make it too big or you will reduce the size of the space remaining for your jack-o-lantern face.
  • Scrape and remove all of the innards. They will become rotten, smell bad, and attract insects if you are not thorough.
  • Lightly draw your face before carving and then, look at the proportions before making that first cut. A drawing can be changed, but the cutting can not.
  • After the pumpkin has been carved, thoroughly coat the inside and all of the cut out holes with petroleum jelly. This not only allows the pumpkin to retain its moisture and last longer, but also helps to deter insects.
  • Last but not least, choose a sturdy, easy to light candle for illumination. If you are wary of the flame, department stores and craft shops should carry battery operated candles — a.k.a. flameless candles.
Of course, not all pumpkins need to be carved. Painting is just as attractive. By using the stem as the nose, applying hats, glasses, hair, and any other number of accessories - uncarved pumpkins can be made into works of art. And, because they are not carved, with cool weather, many will last until Thanksgiving.

For more information or to submit your own questions, feel free to email me at tracy@parkerplants.com.

Friday, October 2, 2009

Fall Foliage


October Gardening Tips
Parker Gardens
1325 Terrill Rd, Scotch Plains

We all love the fall display in our landscapes and through Scotch Plains and Fanwood, with all of the trees in our area - but - did you ever wonder what causes that beautiful fall display?
By Tracy A. Smith | 5:51am

As I drive through Scotch Plains and Fanwood, I like to look at all of our trees and watch the progression of their change in leaf color. Did you ever wonder why they change color and give us a breath-taking show each fall? Well, the answer will give you a little lesson in plant physiology.

During the summer,as the nights began to get longer, hormonal changes began to occur in our trees. This slowed and eventually stopped the production to chlorophyl in our trees' leaves. Chlorophyl is the substance that gives the leaves their green color and captures the sunlight to convert it into food for the tree.

As the chlorophyl dies off, the colors of the leaves' starches and sugars come out...and they happen to be orange, red, and yellow. The brilliance of the show is influenced by the amount of water we received during the season, and the coolness of the fall temperatures. Based upon this information - wea re in for a great Autumn display this year!

Getting back to the garden though...as the leaves begin to fall, it is important to remove them from your lawn. The best way is to use a mulching lawnmower and use the mulched up leaves as extra fertilizer on your lawn. As the chopped up leaves decompose, nitrogen is added back into the soil. The second best choice is to rake and compost your leaves.

If leaves are left on top of the lawn, they will shade out the grass from the sun, creating dead spots and a damp environment that is perfect for disease growth. This will greatly weaken your lawn both now and as it sustains itself over the winter.

For more information, or to submit your own questions, feel free to email me at tracy@parkerplants.com

Spring Blooming Bulbs!


Gardening: Planting Spring-Blooming Bulbs
Parker Gardens
1325 Terrill Rd, Scotch Plains

We enjoy the flowers in the spring, but the time to plant is now.
By Tracy A. Smith
September 19, 2009



While most people of Scotch Plains and Fanwood probably think of spring when looking at tulips, daffodils, crocus, hyacinth, and the plethora of other March and April blooming bulb plants, it is important to know that fall is the time to plant the bulbs in order to enjoy those cheery, colorful, and aromatic blossoms next year.

Fresh bulbs are now available for purchase. They should go into the ground shortly after buying them to ensure that they do not dry out. When buying bulbs, look for healthy specimens. They should feel solid when you pick them up. Avoid any with soft spots, mold, or bruises.

Planting:

Many of us in Scotch Plains and Fanwood have to deal with clay soil. Be sure to add plenty of sphagnum peat moss, compost, and sand so air and water can move through the soil easily.

Each type of bulb has a different planting depth so be sure to read the label of each package that you buy. If you become confused by which end goes up, the pointy end goes upwards and the either flattened end or fatter end is the bottom.

Treat bulbs with rodent repellents to keep squirrels, voles, mice, etc. from scampering off with your freshly planted flowers. Add fertilizers such as bulb-tone mixed with bonemeal for the heartiest spring color displays. Spring bulbs do not benefit by being fertilized during or after blooming. The time to fertilize is at planting and then in the subsequent autumns that follow.

Water bulbs thoroughly after planting and then let Mother Nature take over from there.

Bulbs are an excellent choice for our area. Because many of the spring blooming bulbs will perform whether planted in full sun or in wooded areas, we can all benefit from their beauty.

Dividing Perennials

Gardening: Dividing Perennials

Parker Gardens
1325 Terrill Rd, Scotch Plains
Fall is a great time to divide perennials, not just to increase the plants in your landscape but to keep your perennials healthy as well.
By Tracy A. Smith
September 26, 2009

Perennials are awesome plants. Not only do they add seasonal color, but they come back every year. If you time it and plant it just right (and I see about half and half of this process as I make my way through Scotch Plains and Fanwood), you have early blooming perennials, summer bloomers that come into color just as the early bloomers have finished showing their color, and fall bloomers to take you through November. That is about eight months of continuous color!
One other great reason to buy perennials is that they can be divided. By dividing, I mean just what it sounds like — you take a clump and break it into smaller plants. Now, not only do perennials provide color, but they can help fill your landscape and help stretch your money that was originally invested into your garden ... and they are great to share with neighbors.

Another reason for division with some (but not all) perennials is that after a few years in the ground, perennials are ready to be divided into smaller clumps. It helps keep them in the original size that you needed in the first place, and it keeps them healthy. As certain perennials grow, they may become too dense and crowded. The plant may begin to decline as the center, or heart, of the plant becomes somewhat woody. This can be cut away and the younger offshoots are replanted.

Fall is a great time for perennial division. The soil temperatures are warm even though the air is cooler, rain is more abundant, and the daytime temperatures do not cause stress on the plants. By cutting and dividing your perennials in the fall, they will be ready to perform again next growing season.

Division:
Lift out the plant with a spade;
Divide the plants and more importantly the roots into three or four full portions;
If the divisions do not pull apart easily, use a sharp knife to cut through the plant or wedge the portionas apart;
Trim the vegetation back by about a quarter to a third, we want the new plant to focus more on root production than leaves;
Replant and keep watered for several weeks to aid in root regeneration.


Because the plant is about to enter dormancy, do not expect, and do not be alarmed, by the fact that you do not see much new surface growth. That is reserved for spring and summer.